This is the Ford manual covering the Dana 20 transfer case for the Ford Bronco.

Thanks to the Old Car Manual Project.
Please check them out for other old car manuals.
http://www.tocmp.com

Aluminum Radiator Upgrade

PARTS NEEDED:

• (1) Howe Aluminum Radiator Summit Part number HRE-342A28 ($206.95)
• (1) 22lb radiator cap Summit Part number HRE-3427 ($9.39)
• (4) Complete Set of James Duff Radiator Brackets – Part Number 3105 ($35.00)
• (1) Lower Radiator Hose – Carquest Part Number 21034 ($10.00)
• (1) Plasma Cutter/cutting Wheel/Gas Cutting Torch
• (2) Extra Hose Clamps for Lower Radiator Hose ($3.00)
• (2) 3” Galvanized nipples which ½” bolt will fit through (Ace Hardware) ($3.00)
• (2) 4”x1/2” (or 7/16”) Grade 5 Bolts with nuts, washers & Lock Washers ($4.00)
• (1) Piece of flat steel +/- 8” long by 1-1/2” wide by ¼” ($Free)
• (1) Drill with assorted bit sizes
• (1) Roll of foam tape used for camper/topper shells on pickups ($5.00)

Disc Brake Conversion - Rear

Yes Disc, not Disk:)

EB Tie Rod Conversion

If you have a 76 - 77 Bronco with the inverted Y tie rod assembly and do any kind of serious off-roading you have probably already bent or spaghettied your tie rod assembly more than once. Tired of straightening the mess out time after time, it only gets worse once it has been bent once. Consider changing back to the T-style steering linkage, it's stronger, doesn't bend as easily and can be reinforced if necessary.

The parts that you will need are as follows:

Power Steering Pump Upgrades

  ***Power Steering Pump Upgrades***

NAPA POWER STEERING PUMP UPGRADE,

This is an easy power steering pump upgrade. This pump is supposed to be identical internally to the Saginaw 'canned ham' pump that's so popular, but with a different style reservoir.

Parts Required:

Napa - Part # 20-6244 Power Steering Pump Napa - Part # 1563 Pressure hose fitting adapter

Internal Hood Latch In an Early Bronco

PARTS REQUIRED

1. Upper and lower hood latch (cable operated) from a Rabbit, Scirocco, Dasher or Fox.
2. Lever and cable assembly from a Dasher (or a Fox, cause I was told its the same length a the Dasher, a VW parts guy could verify).
3. Spring (Pep Boys #40552)

Early Bronco Body Lift !!

Why a body lift? That's a good question. The reason for any kind of lift is travel. Wheel travel that is. There are two basic types of lifts for any truck: body and suspension. While a full discussion is beyond the scope of this Tech Note, we'll quickly go over the basics of getting the most travel from your suspension.

Bright Headlights? Add Relays

The Problem:

The stock wire headlight wiring is quite small (#18)
and it follows a serpentine-like path from the battery to the
headlight switch, down to the high/low switch and then back thru the
engine compartment to the headlights. The voltage drop along this
path is not negligible, so the lights only get maybe
9-12 volts instead of the 13-14 they should have.
You also can get flickering from the headlight thermal breaker tripping,
which eventually dies from the well known "flashing Ford headlights" syndrome.

Brighter Headlights

Here is a quick and easy way to put more light in your path. This is one of the easiest and cheapest modifications you can do to your rig.

Here is an ascii diagram of the modification:

      foot
 in-dash Battery switch
 light switch | o-------------|) high beam
                o-------------------Relay----|-----\
              | |  round        | o-------------|) low beam
              | |
              |____________|

Here are the directions:

So you changed tires and now your speedometer is off?

1. Find out how far off your speedo is (with the new tires installed)
   1. Using Milemarkers
      1. Drive on the highway for 10 miles (according to mile markers) and note how far your odometer advances. Divide the odo reading by 10 and that will tell you what percentage your speedo is off.