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Re: D60 ?

From: Roger <fearme_at_greatnorthern.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 11:00:33 -0800

It's very, very important that the vehicle be sitting in the normal
position, and the weights on the axes where they will be when driven.
If you do a bunch of measurements from the floor before you start
would be the best. I forgot that little detail, it's easy to
overlook especialy when the body is off. My rear was a little high.
Luckily I set it with stock bushings so I can use degreed ones to get
it where it belongs.

Might be another good Saturday garage project. Everyone put your
Bronco on a flat surface. Put some weight in the seat to simulate
passengers. Then take frame to floor, axle to floor corner's
everything. Then make note of what springs you have, lifts, shocks
etc. and save the data. It would be invaluable information when
modification time came.


----- Original Message -----
From: Dusenberry, Quinn <quinn.dusenberry_at_red.gd-ots.com>
To: EBML <ebml_at_bronco.com>
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2002 9:27 AM
Subject: RE: [EBML] D60 ?


> Never done it before, but here is how I would do it. First off, you
need to
> do it with the weight of the vehicle on the front springs. I would
start by
> removing the front wheels and all the brake rotors, hubs, and such.
I would
> also remove the knuckles. Then I would make/buy a piece of tubing
that was a
> very close fit going through the upper and lower ball joint holes.
Remember,
> the weight of the vehicle needs to be on the axle now *and* the
vehicle
> should be sitting at normal front and rear heights, ie no tilt. It
should be
> sitting there with the front tires off but the frame remain where it
was
> before you took the front tires off. Then I would lay an angle
finder along
> the rod running through the upper and lower ball joint holes. The
reason for
> the rod is you can have it be much longer. The lnoger it is, the
more
> accurate your measurement would be.
>
> I should mention that the radius arm ears and radius arms (both
sides)
> should be on. The radius arm caps won't be tight at first. Leave
them loose
> until you get the axle tilted to the desired degree, I think factory
spec is
> leaning back at about 4 degrees or so. Anyway, I would til the axle
back
> using a bottle or floor jack and then slowing and carefully tighten
the
> radius arm caps. Once they are tightened down, I would double check
the
> angle on both sides and then tack weld the ears from the sides. Then
I would
> take the radius arms off the vehicle and weld the ears to the axle.
You
> could trailer the vehicle to an alignment shop after the tack
welding step
> to double check your work prior to final weld if you want too.
>
> While we're on the topic, here is how I would define the track bar
mount.
> The same weight on the front axle stuff applies here too. I would
drop a
> plumb bob line down the side of the frame rails on each side until
the tires
> (or some other easily referenced thing, perhaps upper ball joint
centerline)
> are equal distance from the frame on each side. Then just let the
track bar
> rotate down into position and tack weld on the mounting structure.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Allen Fahey [mailto:afahey_at_peoplepc.com]
> Sent: Friday, February 01, 2002 3:27 AM
> To: EBML
> Subject: [EBML] D60 ?
>
>
> I'm getting ready to mount my radius arm "ears" on my D60. How do I
> correctly measure the castor/camber.
> Allen Fahey
> 73 Bronco project
> Hanover, Md.
>
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Received on Fri Feb 01 2002 - 11:58:38 MST


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